2024 Oot an Aboot
Tap o North 29 May
Despite the forecast for heavy rain showers, which proved accurate, nine hardy members set out to explore Tap o North near Rhynie. The name Rhynie derives from the old Celtic word for King and the excavations by Aberdeen University from 2022 – 2018 proved that there was a large ceremonial complex in a field at Barflat Farm. But where did all the people live? That question was not answered until a LiDAR Survey was carried out on Tap 0 North.
The survey revealed approximately 800 platforms that had been leveled so that round houses could be built on the steep slope. These are all enclosed by a wall circling the upper slopes of the hill. It is estimated that up to 4,000 people lived here between 300 and 600 AD.
At the summit of the hill is the Iron Age fort. This dates from 400 – 100 BC. The walls were 6m thick and built of stone interlaced with timber. At some point the timber spars were set on fire and the resultant high temperatures fused some of the stones together. By the time we got this far the rain had turned quite heavy so, after a quick hot drink, we headed back downhill.
We rounded off the visit with an inspection of the Pictish symbol stones which are kept near the graveyard in Rhynie
Birse Water Mills 19 June
Fourteen members attended the visit to the water powered mills belonging to Birse Community Trust (BCT). We were met at the Finzean Sawmill by our guides Alison and Nancy. The sawmill, which dates from the 1820s, originally belonged to Finzean Estate and was taken into care by BCT in 1999. After a programme of restoration and repairs the mill was in full working order. The mill is powered by a water wheel fed by a complex system of lades which lead water, directly from the Water of Feugh, to the sawmill and the adjacent turning mill and smiddy. The layout of the mill, with two saw benches, is typical of many rural sawmills of the last century. Recent storm damage to the wheel means that the mill is, temporarily, unable to operate. The mill normally produces tree stakes, fence posts, rails and other products needed by the Trust for their conservations projects.
The second stop further upstream was at the Bucket Mill. This mill is a Grade A Listed Historic Site and unique in Britain with its specialised water powered machinery for manufacturing wooden tubs and pails or buckets. The buckets are built with staves as in barrel making, but are then put on to very special turning lathes to make the buckets round, inside and out. The Mill was built by Peter Brown in the 1850s and operated by three generations of Browns. The last miller, Stan Moyes, took over the operation of the Mill in the 1970s following the death of Willie Brown. BCT became the owner and manager of the Mill in 1999. BCT carried out a major programme of repairs and restoration work to the Mill after it became the owner and has worked with Stan Moyes to carry out on-going maintenance and repairs to the Mill. Recent storm damage to the wheel means it also is temporarily out of action.
The trip was a fascinating look at the low carbon technology of the past and the conditions in which the workers of that time had to carry out their daily tasks. Our thanks go to Birse Community Trust and to our two guides.
Braemar Castle 19 July
We had a good turnout for our visit to Braemar Castle. The castle has only recently been re-opened to visitors after an extensive programme of harling and lime washing the walls of the castle and the curtain wall. The castle now looks splendid in its pale oatmeal colour, which is as close as possible to the original colour. The castle, in fact a tower house, was built in 1628 by the Earl of Mar but was burnt down in 1689 in the aftermath of the first Jacobite uprising. The castle was then leased and restored by the Hanoverian government in 1748 and used to house a garrison of troops intended to suppress any attempt at a further uprising. The curtain wall was added at this time.
We were shown around by Simon Blackett who has had a long connection with the castle, having been the factor for Invercauld Estate. The castle is now in the care of the local Braemar community.
After the troops left, the large barracks rooms were divided into more comfortable accommodation. making several rooms on each floor including a dining room, drawing room and several bedrooms and bathrooms, the latter famously painted pink
Through the 20th century the castle was let to a succession of wealthy tenants for use as a summer holiday home. Although not all the furnishings are original, many of the pieces of furniture have been returned after having been sold. Other items have been moved from Invercauld House, including many portraits, photographs and paintings making the interior looking very much as it did when it was occupied. Our thanks go to Simon for and informative and entertaining visit and for his rich collection of stories about the building and its occupants.
Knock Castle and Knock Farm 21 August
The rain had eased off by the time our group of 13 members arrived at Knock. We first looked at Knock Castle, a ruined fortified tower house dating from around 1600, now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland. It is similar in design to Craigievar and Braemar Castles but noticeably smaller. It had a walled courtyard which probably contained the stables and perhaps the kitchen. There was a vaulted first floor, which was the main hall, a single spiral staircase gave access from the ground to the upper floors. The first floor had collapsed into the basement at some time in the past but archaeologists cleared out the fallen rubble in 1987 so it is now possible to enter through the original door. The castle replaced an earlier tower which had been destroyed around 1594.
The castle and the land of Knock was granted to Alexander Gordon by the Earl of Huntly. Alexander, who had 7 sons, was a kinsman to the Gordons of Abergeldie Castle. Between Knock and Abergeldie lay the lands of Strathgirnock held by a branch of the Forbes family. The Gordons and the Forbes had been feuding since 1562 when they took opposing sides at the Battle of Corrichie. Time had not healed the enmity and Forbes of Strathgirnock attacked Alexander’s sons when they were casting peats and slaughtered them all. The Gordons responded by hanging Forbes from a tree outside his own house and the lands of Strathgirnock were forfeited to the Gordons.
The history of Knock Castle becomes obscure after this time. There is no record about who then occupied it or when it was abandoned. Was it simply left to fall into disrepair or was it destroyed deliberately? If anyone can find the answer, please let us know.
We then moved on to the farm steading situated just below the Castle. The first edition OS map of 1865 does not show any buildings on this site so the farm did not replace an earlier settlement. The steading appears to have been built around 1900 and, although now disused, is still in good condition. The buildings are constructed of squared grey granite blocks, obviously from one quarry. This contrasts with the majority of farm steadings of that period which are built with random stones of mixed origin. It is no surprise to see in the valuation roll of 1905 that the owner was “HM The King”. It would appear that Knock Farm was built by the then Prince of Wales to provide for Birkhall. After 1901 when Prince Edward became King he had other things to think about so the farm was leased to a succession of tenants, none of whom lived on the farm. We have not been able to find out when the steading was last used but the most recent mention in the newspaper archives is of a dispersal sale in 1968.
The steading appears not to have been modernised in any significant way since it was built so it is a time capsule of farming methods at the turn of the 20th century. The cattle stalls and the stables are still as they were built. The remains of the threshing mill, powered by a water mill, are still in the barn, although the mill wheel has gone. The roofs still look sound so we can hope that this historic building will still be in good condition for years to come.